GRAPPA,

525 South Water Street, Providence, 454-1611.

In its unpretentious elegance, this waterfront restaurant is about as different from the nearby no-frills Hot Club as Fred Astaire is from Gene Kelly. But just as appealing. The chef is Cambodian-born Neath Pal, whose specialty is Italian cuisine. His version of the sometimes-humdrum pasta fazool sings with just enough cayenne pepper for a warm glow. The entrees are evenly divided among pastas, meats and seafood. The grilled veal chop ($22.95) was among the more extravagant offerings, topped with a savory ragout of wild mushrooms. You can offer a toast to the chef with one of the 15 varieties of grappa available at the bar.